food to glow

feel good food that's good for you

groundnut stew
Growing up in the Deep South, peanuts and peanutty foods were part of my scenery, rather like chips are here in Scotland, or good bread is in France. At its most basic is the peanut butter and jelly sandwich: always on white bread and usually with wobbly Concord grape jelly oozing out of the sides. This sandwich is an everyman food that literally everyone, whether rich or poor, black or white, Democrat or Republican, is happy to eat. A good honest sandwich. Real sweet-tooths might sub the jelly for marshmallow Fluff (the Fluffernutter), but neither is anything without a solid slather of peanut butter.

groundnut stew
It is thought that this all-American mini-meal was born from the WW2 US Army ration packs, where each man got new-fangled white sliced bread, some grape jelly (itself mass produced for those serving in WW1) and a jar of naturally protein-rich peanut butter. Even some of our presidents were involved in peanut growing: Thomas Jefferson cultivated them at Monticello, Jimmy Carter at his family farm in Georgia, and it is said that our first president, George Washington, enjoyed a peanut soup not a million miles from the one I am posting today. A similar soup to President Washington’s is served all over the state of Virginia, and is a constant on the menus in historic Williamsburg.peanuts-1112_640

There are peanutty pleasures beyond the basic sandwich, although internally embellished with a plain salty potato chip – or three – the PB & J was quite the treat in my day. But if you were lucky, and your mother was a baker, then some really decadent treats could be yours for the price of cleaning your room.

The apogee for me is the peanut butter cookie, which is  basically butter, flour, peanut butter and sugar, leavening, vanilla and an egg. In my house these would be made in massive batches, ostensibly for a bake sale or for a poorly church member, but always enough to fill the battered enamel Christmas cake tin that we used year-round, and smelled faintly of rum. You can keep your Girl Scout Do-Si-Dos, and your Nutter Butters, this is THE peanut butter cookie to end all peanut butter cookies. The best bit as a kid was getting to roll the sticky, sweet dough into balls, roll the balls in yet more sugar, then pressing them onto the cookie sheet with a fork, criss-cross style. Basically multiple opportunities to lick the delicious raw dough  – and incur the wrath of the safety police, aka my mother: “That’s disgusting. No one wants your germs. And there’s more in you than on the tray.”

Another peanutty delight is something that sounds hazardous and disgusting to many non-Southerners: the boiled peanut.  Ah, the boiled peanut. That salty legumous treat, dispensed from steaming, dubious-looking drums at roadside stands, and served en-shell in styrofoam cups. 530316484_52e12419c0_tThe only snack where spitting is not only allowed, but encouraged. Bless him, Mr A is a brave soul, but the first time I introduced him to this southern delicacy he thought it was some kind of joke natives play on foreigners. He really thought this was some sort of initiation rite, a kind of culinary Deliverance. His first visit to Florida to meet my folks came during peanut season and, as is the norm, there were plenty of peanut shacks and trailers advertising their singular snacks on homemade, usually misspelled, signs. I pulled over to one in my car and asked my then-fiance to do the honours of getting us some peanuts. His pupils dilated in what I now know was fear, but still with only the smallest of hesitations he procured a scalding pot of shell-on peanuts, the dimpled goobers cowering in an evil-looking brine (his probable view). Delighted, I plucked one from the pot and, with a manicured hand (this was a looong time ago, when I had time for that level of grooming) plucked a peanut from within, and proceeded to crack it open with my teeth. Classy, or what? He soon got the idea and we both polished off the pot while leaning on my little Mazda 323. Those were the days. I haven’t had these peanuts in years, but I can almost conjure up their soft, saline nuttiness.

What Mr A had grown up eating, or rather most probably slurping, was a stew something like this. He spent his formative years in Zambia, which is in southern Africa. And although these kind of stews are more common in West African countries, like Mali and Senegal, my mother-in-law Ann cooked something not dissimilar with whatever was available, including peanuts, yams and scrawny market chickens. Most groundnut stews will be made with chicken and staple items like yams, peanuts, tomatoes, spices and whatever is good at the market, like okra and greens. It is a delicious hodgepodge  of a stew combining foods that were at various points in time either ‘slave food’ (peanuts, peas, yams, greens), or travelled on slave ships (the spices). A sad and shameful backstory but one that has been absorbed and transformed by the peoples who make and eat groundnut stew. Traditionally it is served with mealy meal (rather like polenta), millet, sorghum or a sticky starchy porridge that you roll into balls called fufu. Rice, quinoa and even rough country bread are also good.

I have been making seasonal variations of this recipe for a very long time – over 20 years. And I have recently introduced it with thumbs up all round to my Nutrition Workshops at the Maggies Cancer Caring Centre in Edinburgh. I am sure it was something I had tried somewhere, or read about, but it is basically my vegan, and American, version of a very African dish. The photos show a summer version, with aubergines, fresh tomatoes and borlotti beans. This time of year I use black eye peas. This thick, almost satay-like, vegetable-heavy stew welcomes any legume or bean, but I like black eye peas best: partly to do with the whole New Years’ tradition thing, But mostly because their special creaminess is perfect here, with the sweet-savoury flavours that leap from the pot and fill the house with warm spice. We will be having this with American friends on New Years’ Day and I will serve it with hot sauce-doused kale and a big skillet of cornbread. And no Mark, I won’t forget the dime for luck!

Although this is a long way from peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, the groundnut stew has become a staple winter warmer here at food to glow. And like the PB and J, it tastes great with a few salted crisps!

Similar recipe: Hoppin’ John  For New Year’s Day Luck Southern StyleDSC_0002groundnut stew

West African Groundnut Stew

Last Year: Brilliant Blinis with Sweet and Savoury Toppings
 
Miss R’s Track of the Week: That Home – The Cinematic Orchestra  -lush, beautiful
 
My husband spent his formative years in Zambia and, although not Zambian, this dish evokes happy memories for him. This is an adaptation of a traditional West African dish, often made with chicken. Adjust the heat of the chillies and the amount of the peanut butter to your liking. If serving a family – and kids love this stew – perhaps keep out the chillies but offer chopped chillies separately, or a fiery chilli oil perhaps. You can also add in a tin of coconut milk during the simmering, which is sublime. It looks like loads of work but it is really just chopping, and you can use whatever you like to bulk it out rather than what I have suggested. In common with most stews, groundnut stew tastes even better the next day.
 
1 tbsp rapeseed/canola oil or groundnut oil
1 onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1-2 green or red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped
2 cm fresh gingerroot, peeled and grated (include the juices)
1 tbsp brown sugar (dark for preference)
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground turmeric
½ tsp cayenne pepper or hot paprika (optional)
1 green pepper, deseeded and chopped
1 butternut squash, deseeded, peeled and diced into bite-size cubes (roughly 1 kg) – OR equivalent in carrots
1 large sweet potato, peeled (if not organic) and cubed 
up to 250g of mixed seasonal vegetables, such as okra, aubergine, courgettes, celeriac, spinach, chard (optional)
1 litre hot light vegetable stock or water*
4-6 heaped tbsp smooth ‘natural’ peanut butter (e.g. not American style, sweet kind)
400g tin tomatoes
salt and pepper, to taste
2 tins black-eye peas, borlotti beans or kidney beans (or equivalent dried and boiled), drained and rinsed**
50 g unsalted peanuts (if salted, rinse), chopped – as garnish
 
Heat the oil in a large, lidded saucepan. Add the onion, cover and cook gently for five minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the garlic, chillies, ginger, sugar, turmeric, pepper, cinnamon and cumin and saute for a couple of minutes. Stir in the green pepper, squash, sweet potatoes and seasonal vegetables, if using. Add the tin of tomatoes and all but 50 ml of water/stock; season to taste. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat to simmer.
 
Measure the peanut butter into a small, steep-sided bowl or jug (to prevent the peanut butter from sliding out!) and add the now only warm liquid. Stir carefully until amalgamated. Add to the stew. Cover the pan and simmer for 30 minutes. After 20 minutes add the cooked beans and simmer until heated through. Test and adjust the seasoning before sprinkling over the chopped nuts and serving with brown rice, quinoa or even flatbread with which to scoop up the stew. 
 

Other traditional garnishes are chopped hard-boiled egg, shredded lettuce, sliced tropical fruit (e.g. banana, mango, pineapple), parsley, chutney and chopped tomato (perhaps not all at once though).

* When first posted I listed the liquid as 400 ml – way too little. Increase to 1 litre
** I almost always soak, rinse and then boil up a large batch of black eye peas from scratch, cooling and freezing the remainder for other recipes. Highly recommended.
 
Serves 6 (freezes well)groundnut stew

19 thoughts on “Warmly Spiced Peanut, Sweet Potato and Black Eye Pea Stew (Groundnut Stew)

  1. Daphne Webber says:

    Brought back Zambian memories. It took me ages to discover that rather than shelling raw peanuts, roasting and then grinding them for my groundnut stew if was a lot easier to use peanut butter.
    A Happy New year to you and yours
    Daphne

    1. Lovely to hear from you Daphne. I hope it didn’t take long to cotton on to peanut butter over roasting and grinding, because that sounds a right palaver! All the best to you and your family in 2013. I hope you can smell the groundnut stew stew over in greater Glasgow!

  2. We found an African cookbook with this recipe (in Tokyo of all places), and have tried a few variations on groundnut stew over the years. Mine has never managed to be as photogenic or inviting as yours, and always sat dull brown on the plate, not advertising its tastiness (and never felt like something we could serve to company). You’ve managed to make this look as good as I know it to be. I’ll need add “improve plating” to my list of New Year’s resolutions … think your blog will be an invaluable resource there.

    If you miss your boiled peanuts, you might want to try making Chinese braised peanuts – which are placed on the table at the same time as the menus in Chinese restaurants in Southeast Asia. They are braised with soy sauce, sugar, salt, star anise and cinnamon, and served shelled (so there’s no spitting, which is very un-Chinese now that I think of it). I’ve never seen anyone turn their nose up at them.

    1. J-F those peanuts sound fabulous! I will have to investigate that for sure. I don’t know about my plating skills. Other blogs are way better (I’m not indulging in false modesty here) so I would consult more widely for styling tips! But thanks for the vote of confidence 😀

  3. This sounds perfect! I never used peanut butter for groundnut stew ill HAVE to try this!

    1. If you usually do the roasting and grinding peanuts thing like Daphne here in the comments section then the peanut butter ‘trick’ is a time-saver. I buy Whole Earth brand I can get it no added sugar and salt, and just adjust the balance myself with a little brown sugar if needs be. Have a Happy New Year

  4. Sally says:

    Terrific post – learnt so much from it. Love the story about spitting peanuts with Mr A. My Canadian friend is staying right now and has bought a jar of peanut butter today – much to the disgust of my family – however I do like it in satay so there’s hope for me with this delicious sounding stew. Happy new Year Kellie

    1. Gosh Sally with all of your delicious cooking you probably don’t need any new recipes, but I do think for peanut butter novices this is quite a good one as it isn’t sticky (which is a big objection for pb detractors) and you can be quite subtle with the amount. See what your Canadian friend thinks 😀 I have literally just made the batch we will enjoy tomorrow, and will make the cornbread and sauteed chilli and garlic kale just before serving. What are you having for New Years Day? Do you have any traditions? Have a good one tomorrow, and a terrific 2013.

  5. Linda says:

    This sounds great -can’t wait to make it!. Happy New Year Kellie

    1. Thank you Linda. A great pot of it is cooling down on the hob to be eaten tomorrow. Have a Happy New Year. Will we see you out running on the 1st, I wonder?

  6. STUNNING photos and a lovely Deep South recipe…..I love it Kellie! I just popped by to wish you a very Happy New Year! Karen xxxx

  7. Kylie says:

    That looks amazing!

  8. Natalie Ward says:

    Happy New Year Kellie! This is right up my street and reminds me that I need to discover more African cuisine this year and follow up on your Georgian recomenndation too, so much food, so little time, can’t wait! Here’s to a happy, healthy and delicious 2013! x

  9. mochafrappe says:

    Reblogged this on 0ReBlog0.

  10. Melina says:

    This looks delicious. Have you tried Hugh Fernley Whitingstalls Butternut and Nut Butter soup, sooo good

    1. No I haven’t but that combo sounds divine. Thanks for the recommendation 🙂 And thanks for commenting

If you have time, I would love to hear from you. Thanks so much!

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