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Over-stuffed Vietnamese Savoury Crepes (vegan and gluten-free)

Can I get a bit personal for a moment: do you have a culinary crush? Are you mad for Malaysian food (it’s right up there for me)? What about kale: has it jumped the shark, or is it still fanning the flames of your heart (still fanning away here)? Or have you freaked out on freekeh (yet to fully explore, but watch this space)?

Is there an ingredient, cuisine or style of cooking that you love above all others?

Well, this is my crush food. Bánh xèo (pronounced bahn say-oh, and meaning “sizzling cake”) is simply the epitome, the apogee, of my culinary wish list: crunchy yet soft, sour-salty, umami and faintly sweet. With lovely crispy lace edges if I get it right (not crucial, but oh so satisfying) How it manages all these tick boxes I don’t know, but it does. And it is just as good made vegan. In fact, I prefer it without the traditional pork and prawns.

I’ve gone all fangirl for this dish, first tasted properly a number of years ago in a London cafe (since gone downhill, I understand). I wanted to write a thank you letter/fan letter after sighing and mmming my way through my first proper one. That crepe was the Donny Osmond (circa ’74) of the food world for me. I have since had it in Vietnamese restaurants in Edinburgh – all very nice – but thought I better start making my own as my dilated eyes and table thumping were getting a bit embarrassing.

When I first embarked on doing my take on this recipe I was shocked to find that the crepe contains no egg. The yellow of the turmeric fools you into thinking that henny pennies have been involved, but no. It is pretty straightforward to put together, and I would stick out my neck and say that it is  family-friendly – making smaller ones as required (or nicking half of a big one and giving the rest to said child). As with all pancakes, the first one is often a duffer, but learn from the first one (mine is usually lop-sided and a bit thick -no comments please).

I won’t detain you further from this recipe. I hope you aren’t too put off with the long ingredient list and my usual pedantic hand-holding instructions. It really is quite straight-forward for the semi-experienced home cook. Of which I am one.  Connoisseurs of Vietnamese food (and indeed any Vietnamese reading this) may be somewhat taken aback by my version, but I hope you like the sound of it. It is loaded with vegetables and herbs (hence the over-stuffed in the title), with some optional options to cut time.

So, what’s YOUR food crush? 

Over-stuffed Vietnamese Crepes with Chilli-Lime Dipping Sauce

This Week in 2011: Sun-dried Tomato Tapenade (sunshine in a jar)

This Week in 2012: Mediterranean Sauteed Artichoke Pasta with ‘Poor Man’s Parmesan’ 

Miss R’s Track of the Week: Ellie Goulding’s cover of Alt-J’s Tessellate

Please, please don’t be put off by the long list of ingredients. Nor by my long-winded pedantic instructions. These veganised Vietnamese crepes – or bánh xèo (pronounced bahn say-oh) – are really easy to make, and even easier to eat. The key is to have everything chopped and waiting. 

 You can make the batter and dipping sauce ahead of time (even overnight) and fry up when you are ready. They are best freshly made and served as they come out of the pan, but are perfectly fine with a brief spell in a low oven. Non-vegans/vegetarians may like to use prawns or a combination of prawns and tofu. Traditionally, pork and prawns are used (as well as less vegetation – I go a bit wild), but these crispy yet moist crepes are so flavourful that even confirmed meat eaters will not miss the meat. 

This recipe is influenced by numerous recipes, including this one from theKitchn.

 

Crepe Batter

200g (1 ½ cups) rice flour (I used brown, but Doves is good; US brand King Arthur too)
1 tsp ground turmeric
¾ tsp salt
1 tbsp rapeseed/canola oil OR coconut oil
½ tsp finely chopped lime leaves (optional but delicious)
the greens from 2 spring onions/scallions – finely sliced
150ml (3/4 cup) coconut milk – I used reduced fat
150ml (3/4 cup) cold water
50 ml (1/4 cup) soda water/club soda (add later)

Rapeseed oil OR coconut oil – to cook the crepes

Filling

2 tsp rapeseed oil/coconut oil
2 cloves garlic, finely minced or sliced
1 medium red onion, quartered and thinly sliced
75g (1 cup) shiitake OR chestnut mushrooms, thinly sliced
100g (1 packed cup) mung beansprouts, blanched in boiling water 30 seconds then rinsed in cold water
100g (1/2 cup) edamame OR peas – if frozen, cook briefly and rinse with cool water (optional – add more beansprouts if not using)
200g pack (7 oz) basil tofu (eg Taifun) or plain/marinated/fried tofu*, sliced (see image for guidance on size)
Freshly ground black pepper
Good pinch salt if using plain tofu

Tiny pinch raw sugar (optional)

Dipping Sauce (Nuoc Cham)**

2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 red chilli, finely minced (deseed if liked) OR 1 tsp garlic-chilli sauce
2 tbsp fish sauce OR soy sauce (light for preference)
50ml (2 tbsp + 2 tsp) fresh lime juice OR rice wine vinegar
50ml (2 tbsp + 2 tsp) water

1 tbsp raw sugar

Herb Salad ‘Bed’: 1 round/butter lettuce, leaves separated; 1 small-medium cucumber (English), peeled, halved and thinly sliced lengthways; 3 carrots, peeled then ‘shaved’ with a  Y peeler, or thinly sliced; 6 radishes, thinly sliced; plenty of washed and dried basil, mint and coriander (about 40g each) – roughly torn. Divide these fresh ingredients between four plates before cooking the crepes and filling.

Making the batter: Add the rice flour, turmeric and salt to a mixing bowl (glass or metal). Whisk thoroughly to distribute then pour in the oil and fold in the lime leaves and spring onions. Gradually add the water and coconut milk, whisking constantly as it will quickly become thick. Let this sit while you get on with the filling and dipping sauce.

Making the dipping sauce: Mix all together and set aside. The sugar will dissolve on its own. Taste and adjust to your own liking. **You could instead dilute down a good  garlic-chilli sauce with lime/rice vinegar and water. For serving children, a loosened sweet chilli dipping sauce would be perfect. 
Making the filling: Heat a tablespoon of oil in a large, heavy frying pan over a low-medium flame. Add the garlic and sliced onion and turn over in the oil. Pop on a lid, if the pan has one, and let the onions soften for two minutes. Add in the sliced mushrooms and tofu, sautéing for a further few minutes, stirring occasionally. Once the tofu has a little colour, stir in the blanched beansprouts and edamame – this will make the filling moister as well as add crunch and pop. Season with pepper and a pinch of sugar; stir, cover and set aside while you make the first crepe. *Tofu can be replaced with prawns or chicken , or a combination of these.  

Making the crepes: Wipe clean the frying pan then heat 1-2 teaspoons (depends on pan size and non-stickness) of oil over a medium flame. Take the jug of batter, give it a good whisk; add in the soda water or 100ml ‘plain’ water and whisk again. Using a soup ladle add a scoop of batter to the hot pan, tilting as you add , until it is evenly distributed. The batter will be ‘holey’ – this is normal, and desirable even.

Fry the crepe for three minutes before laying over one-quarter of the filling onto one half of the crepe. Pop the lid on (if you have one) and let the filling reheat. Remove the lid and, with a spatula, fold the unfilled side over the filled side. Carefully slide onto a herb salad-dressed plate, or onto a baking tray to keep warm in a low oven (100C/212F) while you make the remaining crepes. If you can have two pans on the go that’s ideal, put possibly too stressful!

To serve: Serve the crepes over or alongside the herb salad, and with the punchy dipping sauce – plus loads of napkins. My Miss R likes to use a knife and fork, but traditionally one uses the lettuce leaves and herbs as a wrap to hold the crepe: messy but so fun and delicious! PS you could also serve this with a loosened satay sauce, as well as the nuoc cham.

Serves 4

Note: This recipe is easily halved. The uncooked batter will keep one day in the refrigerator. Allow it to come to room temperature and whisk well before using

Similar recipe on food to glow: Tamarind Prawn Summer Rolls

I am sending this over to the fragrant Karen at Lavender and Lovage for her Cooking With Herbs challenge, as well as to the always-accommodating Mark at Javelin Warrior Cookin’ W/ Luv Made With Love Mondays. Please go and visit for loads of herby and made-from-scratch delights.

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