food to glow

This recipe is inspired by Yotam Ottolenghi (do I even need a link here?!), but more especially Silvena Rowe, a much-underrated London-based Bulgarian-Turkish chef who specialises in Eastern Mediterranean food. She’s an entertaining and forthright regular on BBC’s Saturday Kitchen – love her. You can make this borek wild or mild, depending on your access to fresh nettles. The dried berries are not necessary but I love the spike of sweet-sour they bring to this overtly savoury pastry.

500g of young  chard, kale and young nettles OR spinach and watercress or rocket*

2 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp za’atar spice blend, plus extra for top (I have a recipe – buried in the main recipe; or buy it at good food shops)

Juice and zest of 1 small unwaxed lemon

1 tin of chickpeas, drained (save the liquid to make this for dessert!) OR equivalent in podded broad beans/fava beans

100g ricotta

100g feta

Palmful of dried barberries or sour cherries (optional)

1 small egg, beaten OR vegan equivalent such as Ener-G

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 package of phyllo pastry**

up to 100g butter or olive oil

1 tbsp each sesame and Nigella or poppy seeds

Sumac Tomato Sauce

1 tbsp olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

6-8 medium, ripe tomatoes OR 1 tin/jar best tomatoes – chopped

2 tsp sumac (or lemon juice)

Pinch of sugar, salt and pepper

You will need: either a 2-inch deep rectangular pan OR 1-2 baking sheets

* any wild or bitter edible greens are good in this – mustard, dandelion, mizuna, etc*

**You can do this one of two ways: cylindrical and individual, or tray bake-style. For the tray bake, use eight phyllo sheets, stacking buttered pieces on top of each other for the base and top. For a cigar-shaped version, use as many as you need, with one sheet per serving. See the image for how to roll them up. You will generally use less filling for the individual serving sizes.**

1. Heat the oil in your largest sauté pan or wok and wilt down the greens. Pop the greens into a colander and press with a large spoon to remove much of the moisture. Transfer the greens to a clean tea towel and gently squeeze. Roughly chop the greens then add to a large bowl (I added them back into the pan) and mix with the remaining ingredients, bar the pastry, butter and seeds. I try to remember to taste for seasoning before adding the egg. For my classes I don’t add salt, but for ourselves, I do.

2. Now, depending on what form you wish to go with this, either butter a 2-inch deep rectangular baking tin and lay 4 buttered phyllo sheets on; OR take one sheet of phyllo and lay it flat on your work surface. Cover the rest of the sheets with a slightly damp tea towel. For the tray, smooth in the filling and top with the remaining four buttered sheets, pinching and trimming the edges. Use a sharp knife to score a diamond pattern or squares (squares are easier for even portioning but diamonds are prettier!). For the cigar ones, see the images. Use the remaining butter to slick over the tops – and edges, if making individual boreks. Sprinkle over the seeds and extra za’atar.

3. Bake in the oven for about 30 minutes, or until very golden and the pastry is crunchy. Serve warm with the sumac tomato sauce. These are also great cold the next day for use in a lunch box, or perhaps to take with you for a healthy picnic nibble.

4. To make the sauce, heat the oil over low-medium in a small saucepan and add the garlic. Saute the garlic until just starting to colour then add the tomatoes, sumac and seasoning. Bring to the boil then reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Cool slightly then blend until smooth-chunky with a hand blender. Serve warm.

Note: this is easily made vegan by swapping the butter for a vegan version, eliminating the egg and cheese and increasing the chickpeas and vegetables. This will change the nature of the pastry but it will still taste great. You could add lightly whipped chickpea liquid to aid the eating texture of the pastry.